How to knit: Harrisville Slippers

How to knit: Harrisville Slippers

How to knit: Harrisville Slippers

We've heard from many aspiring crafters, finding themselves spending more time at home, curious to give knitting a try. Knitting patterns can seem daunting without a teacher on-hand, preventing some from ever giving it a go. 

The Harrisville Slippers are a basic small pattern, accessible for absolute beginner knitters, which will teach many foundational techniques needed for more complicated projects. We think this project might appeal to the more advanced knitters out there too—so skip past the explanations and tutorials if this is you!  You may also download the pattern PDF here, if you do not need any additional tutorial help for this pattern.
Harrisville Slippers Nightshades Shear Design KnittingFinished Measurements
Sizes: Women's Small (Women's Medium / Men's Small, Women's Large / Men's Medium, Men's Large)
Foot Length: 8½ (9¾, 10¾, 11½)" / 21.5 (25, 27.5, 29) cm. 

Yarn 
These slippers were knit with yarn held double to achieve a thick fabric. Pick one of these three yarn choices for your slippers, or dive into your stash.

Note that we were able to achieve the same sizing using a Worsted or DK weight yarn held double. All of the yarns used were spun in our woolen mill, and you may find that some DK weight yarns are thinner than our DK weight yarns. 

Harrisville Highland (worsted weight)
100% Virgin Wool
200 yards per 100 g skein
2 (2, 2, 2) skeins, or  220 (245, 260, 280) yards of Worsted Weight yarn
shown in Midnight Blue and Azure

OR
Harrisville Nightshades (DK weight)
85% Cormo Wool; 15% wool
250 yards per 100 g skein
2 (2, 2, 2) skeins, or  220 (245, 260, 280) yards of DK Weight yarn
shown in stiletto and last call

OR
Harrisville Shear: CVM / Romeldale (dk weight)
100% CVM & Romeldale wool
320 yards per 100 g skein
2 (2, 2, 2) skeins, or  220 (245, 260, 280) yards of Worsted Weight yarn
shown in White and Fawn Brown

Needles
US 10 [6.00 mm] - straight needles, or a circ used for knitting flat
Crochet Hook: Size G-H [4.00 - 5.00 mm] - this will be used to seam our slippers at the end of our knitting. 

Gauge
We will explain gauge further into the pattern, so don't worry if these numbers mean nothing to you as a beginner knitter!
12.5 sts and 18 rows = 4” / 10 cm in stockinette on US 10, after gently wet-blocking.

Notions
2 stitch markers
Tapestry needle

Tutorials

Abbreviations
CO: Cast-on
Dec('d): Decrease(d)
K: Knit
K2tog: Knit two together
P: Purl
P2tog: Purl two together
PM: Place marker
RS: Right side
Sm: Slip marker
SSK: Slip, slip, knit
SSP: Slip, slip, purl
St(s): Stitches
WS: Wrong side

Notes
Before the pattern begins, we wanted to give a more detailed explanation of what you need to do before starting, especially if this is your first knitting project. If you are an experienced knitter, you can skip this note and proceed to the pattern.
Every project that requires a good fit requires a gauge swatch. Don't come at me!

A gauge swatch helps ensure the way you knit mirrors the way someone else knits, specifically the designer of a knitting pattern. All knitters can knit tighter, looser, or somewhere in between depending on the day. How tight or loose you knit will impact how many stitches per inch you can make with the listed yarn and needle size.

To test and see which type of knitter you are, you will knit at least a 4" square in the stitch pattern used for the design, on the needle size listed in the pattern. Then, you will put your swatch in water so the stitches settle—called blocking—let it dry, and measure to compare your stitches and rows per inch against the gauge measurement listed.

If you proceeded to work the pattern with an incorrect gauge measurement, your slippers could be bigger or smaller than what might fit.

Take a look at the information under "Gauge" earlier in the pattern. It lists 12.5 sts and 18 rows = 4” / 10 cm in stockinette on US 10, after gently wet-blocking. This tells us several important pieces of info, (1) the stitches and rows per 4" of knitting, (2) the stitch pattern used (3) the needle size used. 
How to Swatch
  1. Take your yarn held double, CO 13 stitches (rounded up from 12.5 stitches listed to get 4" of fabric) using the long-tail cast-on method.
  2. Work stockinette for 20 rows (rounded up from the 18 rows that it takes to get 4" vertically).
  3. Bind-off these stitches knit-wise
  4. Soak your swatch in water so the stitches settle. Gently squeeze the water from your swatch, and allow it to dry.
  5. Take a ruler, and measure 4" vertically and horizontally—how does this compare against the listed gauge? Adjust your needle size accordingly if your swatch does not match the listed gauge.
If your swatch has less stitches / rows per inch than the gauge measurement, this means you are knitting looser than the pattern's designer. You should knit another gauge swatch on a needle size smaller than your first swatch, until you get the correct gauge listed. 

If your swatch has more stitches / rows per inch than than the gauge measurement, you are knitting tighter than the pattern's designer, and need to go up a needle size for a second swatch to see if you can achieve the designer's gauge. 

    Pattern
    Finally, onto the good stuff! If this is your first knitting project, we suggest looking at the linked tutorials above to familiarize yourself with the techniques. It may also be a good idea to print a copy of the abbreviations, as many words in knitting patterns are shortened for space.

    The sizes available for this pattern are:  Women's Small (Women's Medium / Men's Small, Women's Large / Men's Medium, Men's Large)—measure your feet and compare it against the listed measurements, and note your size in the order it appears in the parentheticals.

    Using the long-tail cast-on and holding your intended yarn held double, CO 32 (34, 38, 42) sts. 

    Row 1: (WS) P10 (10, 11, 12), pm, k12 (14, 16, 18), pm, purl until end. There should be two markers placed in this row. The stitches in the center of the markers are the slipper sole, and will be in garter stitch. The stitches outside the markers are the sides of the slipper, and will be in stockinette.
    Row 2: (RS) Knit until end of row, slipping markers as they appear.
    Row 3: (WS) Purl until first marker, sm, knit until next marker, sm, purl until end. 
    Rep Rows 2-3 another 10 (11, 12, 13) times.
    Note: for new knitters, it is common to see repeat instructions which have you repeat several rows a specified amount of time. When you are asked to repeat two rows 10 times, as an example, this means you are actually working 20 total rows.

    Decrease to Foot
    Note: refer to the tutorial on decreasing if you don't recognize any of these terms.
    Row 1: (RS) K1, ssk, knit until 3 sts before end of row, slipping markers as they appear, k2tog, k1. 2 sts dec'd., 30 (32, 36, 40) sts. 
    Row 2: (WS) Purl until first marker, sm, knit until next marker, sm, purl until end.
    Rep Rows 1-2 another 3 (2, 2, 2) times. 24 (28, 32, 36) sts. 
    Row 3: (RS) Knit until end of row, slipping markers as they appear.
    Row 4: (WS) Purl until first marker, sm, knit until next marker, sm, purl until end. 
    Rep Rows 2-3 another 5 (6, 8, 9) times, or until slipper measures from CO edge approx. 1" / 2.5 cm shorter than total foot length of the intended wearer.

    Decrease Toe
    Note: refer to the tutorial on decreasing if you don't recognize any of these terms!
    Row 1: (RS) Knit until 2 sts before first marker, k2tog, sm, ssp, knit until 2 sts before next m, p2tog, sm, ssk, knit until end of row. 4 sts dec'd., 20 (24, 28, 32) sts. 
    Row 2: (WS) Purl until first marker, sm, knit until next marker, sm, purl until end.
    Rep Rows 1-2 one more time. 16 (20, 24, 28) sts. 
    Bind-off all sts knit-wise.

     

    Rep instructions and knit a second slipper.


    Finishing

    Gently wet-block both slippers, and allow them to dry.

    Once your slippers are fully dry, take a single strand of the yarn you used. Fold your slipper in half long-way, so that the Right Side of the fabric is toward the outside. Along your cast-on edge, work a crochet seam. This forms your slipper heel.



    From your toe to the first decrease you worked, make a crochet seam—this forms the top of your slipper. Turn your slipper inside out so that the Wrong Side is facing, and work a crochet seam along the bound-off edge to form your toe. The seam for the toe is the only seam that is worked from the wrong-side. The slipper is now complete~! Weave in your ends, and duplicate the seaming process on your second slipper.